Reviews

The Malago - Bristol Food Review

Posted on: 2017-06-22

"In The Malago we have both a new kid on the block, and an old favourite. The space is perfect for 'cosy couple' dinners and for larger groups, and their food is carving its own niche on North Street. I urge you to go and try it for yourself!"

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The Malago is run by brother and sister team Helly and John on the former site of Zazu’s Kitchen on North Street. Helly was previously the chef at Zazu’s so she knows the business inside and out, and she is still found in the kitchen while John handles the bar. Zazu’s was well known as a prime spot for brunch and drinks on their lovely deck, and now Helly and John are keen to spread the word about their delicious evening food too.

The first thing that struck me as we walked in was the décor. I am a big fan of mid-century modern style, so the plethora of beautiful Ercol furniture was an immediate plus and I had definitely table and chairs envy. Inside is bright and fresh, with windows all around. I loved the exposed brickwork, wooden floors and subway tiles. Every angle provides a photo op!

 

There’s an evening menu with a bar menu running alongside it. The bar menu offers snacks such as scotch eggs with piccalilli, homemade pork scratchings and sharing boards as well as cod and chips, the Malago burger, and 8oz steak. The evening menu is the fine dining option and features those ‘music to my ears’ buzzwords; truffle, heirloom, seasonal.

To start, I chose the pigeon breast which is served on top of truffled risotto with watercress (£8) and my husband chose the monkfish tail wrapped in Parma ham served with fennel and radish salad (£7.50). The risotto was perfectly creamy and the bite of the rice was just right. The depth of the truffle was countered by something tangy, perhaps vinegar or citrus. I really enjoyed it but I’d have preferred a tiny bit less tang as I love the headiness of truffle. The pigeon was perfectly cooked and incredibly tender. Simon’s monkfish was really beautiful to look at; the colours and presentation made it really appetising. The flavours were delicate and subtle. I love monkfish, and the Parma ham wrapping added flavour and texture, and the Severn Project salad was as delicious as ever.

For his main course, Simon chose the pork tenderloin, quail scotch egg, potato and leek terrine, charred tenderstem, and spring onion (£17) and I chose the fillet of sea bass, new potatoes, spinach, peas, broad beans, cherry tomatoes, saffron broth (£16). I loved the bright, fresh flavours of my fish dish. The skin on the sea bass was really crispy, and the flesh was beautifully cooked. Simon’s pork dish was a real show-stopper. Every element was wonderful on its own and formed a really outstanding meal as a whole. Having grown up in the 80’s where pork was always cooked to a rubbery whiteness, I’m still not entirely used to pork being cooked a little pink but it’s so much better this way!

For pudding, I chose the chocolate and salt caramel tart served with crème fraiche (£7) and Simon had the rhubarb, jelly and white chocolate (£7.50). The salt caramel tart was decadent and rich, with a crumbly truffle texture. The crème fraiche and salt caramel were delicious companions. Simon’s rhubarb dessert was beautifully presented; I loved the colours and the swirl of white chocolate. Included in the dessert were white chocolate shells with a custard filling. I loved this fun touch! Also on the plate were the cubes of rhubarb jelly, little dots of an intense rhubarb reduction and slices of rhubarb (either raw or very lightly poached).

 

The service at The Malago was friendly and efficient, and the food arrived in great time.

 

In The Malago we have both a new kid on the block, and an old favourite. The space is perfect for 'cosy couple' dinners and for larger groups, and their food is carving its own niche on North Street. I urge you to go and try it for yourself!

 

Atmosphere - 4

Food - 5

Service - 4

Value - 4 

For more info please visit www.themalago.club

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