The Alma Tavern - Food Review in Bristol
Posted on: 2015-09-25
Our rating:
This dish was faultless; I can?t think of one single way that it could be improved. The venison had just the perfect amount of texture, and it was juicy and succulent. The dauphinoise was revelatory!
It’s definitely autumn now, and with the turning of the leaves comes the craving for heartier food; warming, indulgent dishes that you finish with a sigh and a smile. Food that reminds you of lazy afternoons tucked up in the warm, with delicious smells making the time pass almost too slowly.
(1).jpg "Alma Tavern in Bristol")
The menu at The Alma Tavern and Theatre in Clifton, Bristol, ticks all the boxes for a September menu; dishes which eke out the last of the summer days (risotto Primavera, or pan fried sea bass) alongside more autumnal classics like chargrilled venison with dauphinoise potatoes, and pan fried chicken with champ potatoes. There’s also a great selection of dishes perfect in any season (the Alma burger, or fish and chips).
To whet our appetites, we shared a ‘soft boiled Scotch egg’, which comes with watercress and mustard mayo. The Scotch egg was spot on. A perfect, tremulous yolk, and a crisp, tasty exterior. The mayo was pleasant, but I’d have preferred a chutney as an accompaniment. In the interest of balance, my boyfriend would like it known that he loved the mayo!
On the recommendation of the head chef, Michael Humphries, we chose the venison and the chicken. When the venison arrived I was so glad I’d taken the chef’s advice. What a gorgeous plate! I had four thick slices of perfectly pink venison, alongside a tidy slice of dauphinoise, and tender-stem broccoli. The sauce was a classic juniper jus. This dish was faultless; I can’t think of one single way that it could be improved. The venison had just the perfect amount of texture, and it was juicy and succulent. The dauphinoise was revelatory! I’d always previously been of the opinion that the more cream the better, but this version changed my mind. Whilst still creamy and indulgent, this dauphinoise was neat and deeply flavourful. On both the very top and bottoms of the potatoes was a layer of pure, crunchy wonder that I can only imagine is the highest of hopes for the most ambitious of potatoes.
The chicken (served with champ potatoes, garden pea puree and grana padano) was fabulous too. I’ve tried and failed to come up with a more elegant way to phrase this, but it was the chickeniest chicken I’ve ever had! When we said this exact phrase to our waitress, she said it’s because they’re ‘happy chickens’, and I’m sure that a large portion of cheffing skill helped bring their happiness to the fore! The accompaniments made for a balanced and satisfying plateful, and we particularly enjoyed the vibrant pea puree.
Given that the chef’s suggestions were so spot-on with our mains, I put my trust in our waitress’s suggestion that I have the chocolate delice for pudding, and Simon went for the panna cotta. The dark chocolate delice was served with salt caramel, and peanut butter ice cream. As far as I’m concerned, puddings don’t get much better than chocolate, toffee and peanuts, and this was a great version. My favourite thing on the plate was the peanut butter ice-cream. It was the perfect balance of sweet and salty, and was really delicious. The delice was appropriately rich and decadent, so much so that I couldn’t finish it. While I’m typing this, I’m very much wishing I’d taken the last bit away with me! My only complaint with this dish would be that I’d have liked more salt caramel, but I should point out that this is due to my greed rather than a stingy portion…
The pistachio panna cotta was a very different dish; where the delice packs a punch with bold, strong flavours, the panna cotta is much more subtle and delicate affair. It was a light and refreshing plate. I loved the combination of flavours and textures, especially the pistachio twist on the classic panna cotta.
Overall, I would say that our meal at The Alma Tavern was outstanding. Every single thing we ate bore the hallmarks of care, attention and skill. I cannot recommend it highly enough!
5/5
Reviewed by Sarah Millington for 365Bristol - the Bristol website where local information matters.
The Alma Tavern, 18-20 Alma Vale Road, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 2HY
Tel: 0117 973 5171
Web: www.almataverntheatre.co.uk
Tags: Food, Review, British, Meat, Vegetarian, Classic, Dinner, Evening, Lunch.
Article by:
Born and raised in the suburbs of Swansea, Jimmy moved to Bristol back in 2004 to attend university. Passionate about live music, sport, science and nature, he can usually be found walking his cocker spaniel Baxter at any number of green spots around the city. Call James on 078 9999 3534 or email Editor@365Bristol.com.
