Poco - Food Review in Bristol
Posted on: 2016-02-04
Our rating:
Fusing global tapas with a uniquely British twist, this buzzy, punchy, vibrant restaurant skilfully blends a chilled, contemporary urban chic with a bohemian, arty dynamic.
Combining a warm, rustic charm with ethically sourced ingredients for dishes of mouth-wateringly delicious tapas, Poco in Bristol’s Stokes Croft is making a serious mark on the city's food scene.
The brainchild of food writer, food waste activist and eco-chef Tom Hunt, the modus operandi of Poco - which also has a restaurant in London - is a vehement commitment to reducing the amount of food waste and sourcing 100% seasonal, organic, locally grown vegetables and free range meat.
The popularity of Poco was evident when we visited on a Wednesday evening - the restaurant was packed full of young professionals spiritedly discussing their latest business deals as well as the more casual, free spirited drinker who had just popped in for a quick pint. (My two pints of the delectably subtle Cotswold Premium Lager slipped down an absolute treat.)
During the day Poco has a sedate, tranquil atmosphere but things get decidedly buzzier and more animated in the evening. It's a wonderful space, combining bohemian aesthetics, a background soundtrack of indie music, plenty of up-cycled furniture, and marvelous open plan kitchen where you can watch the chefs busily work their culinary magic.
During the day they serve a brunch and lunch menu and in the evening a British seasonal tapas selection is chalked up on a massive board in the main back dining area.
My brother and I kicked off with a starter of Hart's sourdough bread with olive oil (£2.50), the bread being sensationally fresh and accompanied by well sourced olive oil that was lip-smackingly savoury and peppery. An impressive slab of tortilla with Severn Project leaves and a piquant harissa (£4) was thick, dense, flavoursome and utterly delicious and well served by its tasty accompaniment.
A salad of mooli, kohlrabi, seeds, walnuts and honey (£4.50) followed a pure, exquisitely joyful mixture of carrot and radish coated in superlative olive oil and superb aged balsamic vinegar. A generous plate of Portuguese 'punched' potatoes with garlic, rosemary and a fiery harissa - a North African mix of chillies, spices and rose water - (£4) were amazingly crispy wedges of potato perfection.
The English broad bean falafel with broad bean puree and pickled turnip (£5) was jam-packed full of heavenly Middle Eastern flavours, beautifully complimented by the arrestingly savoury flavour of the puree. Four thick, square chunks of saddleback pork belly with lemon and fennel (£6) were melt-in-the-mouth slabs of meaty excellence and topped with fabulous, golden, crunchy crackling.
To finish, my clotted cream ice-cream with a shot of espresso - or affogato, if you want to give it its proper Italian moniker - was a dreamily intense coffee-based dessert, while my brother's shot of espresso was spot-on.
Fusing global tapas with a uniquely British twist, this buzzy, punchy, vibrant restaurant skillfully blends a chilled, contemporary urban chic with a bohemian, arty dynamic. With gregarious, efficient staff serving up dishes of local, seasonal food in a snug, lively venue, Poco combines superlatively sourced tapas in a wonderfully inviting, homely restaurant.
5/5
Reviewed by Jamie Caddick with additional words and photos by Andrew Caddick for 365 Bristol - The leading events and entertainment website for the city
Poco is located at: 45 Jamaica Street, Stokes Croft, Bristol, BS2 8JP.
For further info please visit pocotapasbar.com, their Facebook page or Twitter.
Article by:
Born and raised in the suburbs of Swansea, Jimmy moved to Bristol back in 2004 to attend university. Passionate about live music, sport, science and nature, he can usually be found walking his cocker spaniel Baxter at any number of green spots around the city. Call James on 078 9999 3534 or email Editor@365Bristol.com.
