The Ship Inn - Food Review in Bristol
Posted on: 2016-01-27
Our rating:
The meat was out of this world, superlatively cooked, packed with flavour, moist and unbelievably melt in the mouth, while the addition of mature cheddar, mayo, garlic, roots and herbs elevated it to another, faultless burger level.
It's amazing what the right landlord can do to a pub to turn around its fortunes - and with Tony and Ola Zaremba-Wyczlinski now at the helm of The Ship Inn on Lower Park Row in Bristol, this venue is now truly ready to set sail again.
I have many great, mildly inebriated memories of slurping a few ciders at this pub years ago and it used to be a regular meeting and imbibing spot for me and my friends. Over the years, however, the fortunes of The Ship have been unpredictable to say the least, but Tony and his wife Ola have unquestionably turned the place around, catering for punters who just want to pop in for a drink or take advantage of their really rather magnificent menu.
Having worked in the pub industry for the best part of twenty years, they know exactly what they're doing. Their last tenure at The George Inn at Lacock was so successful that they secured a place an impressive three times in the CAMRA Good Beer Guide, and they seem certain to cast their experience and magic on The Ship as well.
Tony's mantra for the essential ingredients of a popular, thriving pub is good ales, wines and food - and who can argue with that? In terms of the decor, The Ship has had a total refurb and now combines mismatched furniture with filament bulbs, retro posters and reclaimed wood panels. The toilets now have a new way to be reached that, as Tony amusingly pointed out, has caused much discombobulation for punters popping in who remembered the place as it used to be - stairs are now at the front instead of the back and you'll find a mini arcade downstairs too!
There's an extensive range of wines and gins, and up to six cask ales. Always on offer are: Theakston's Old Peculier and The Ship ale which comes from Caledonian Brewery. Caledonian Golden XPA or Deuchars IPA plus, a range of guest ales such as Harvest Pale, Proper Job, Ghost Ship, Hobgoblin Gold and Tribute are to be found behind their extensively stocked bar including Caledonian Fool Proof, Theakston's Old Peculiar and the venue's specially brewed The Ship Ale. If that wasn't enough they even have a couple of craft kegs; Three Hop Lager and Coast to Coast Pale Ale with plans to bring another one in soon. Ciders include Strongbow Cloudy Apple and Symonds, plus a number of bottled options.
The menu is certainly impressive, covering sides, tapas, salads, soups and traditional pub classics such as burgers and fish and chips. From Monday to Friday lunchtimes they offer freshly baked ciabattas with various fillings, plus a 'Lite Bites' range - smaller options of dishes from the main menu.
My Thai fishcakes with chilli jam (£4.50) were sensational, two thick discs of fishcake infused with a subtly pungent kick and accompanied by a piquant, fiery chilli jam that got proceedings off to an impressively feisty start. My dad's pasta dumplings stuffed with meat and topped with onion and bacon (£3.95) were equally peerless, the dumplings wonderfully moist, the meat tasty and tender, the bacon crispy and sweet and the cheese arrestingly flavoursome.
For the main course I made a beeline for the The Ship Special (£9.95), a gourmet burger that is truly deserving of that title. The meat was out of this world, superlatively cooked, packed with flavour, moist and unbelievably melt in the mouth, while the addition of mature cheddar, mayo, garlic, roots and herbs elevated it to another, faultless burger level. The accompanying thick cut chips were the perfect amalgam of crispy outside and fluffy inside.
From the specials board, my dad went for the chicken breast, Parma and girolle mushroom sauce with green beans and mash (£12.95). It was a masterpiece on both the plate and the tastebuds. The balance and fusion of flavours and textures was otherworldly, the chicken delicious and moist, the mash consummately creamy, and resting on a pool of sensational mushroom sauce.
My dessert of homemade fruit crumble with custard (£4.95) was exemplary, the beautifully crumbly and buttery topping giving way to eye-rollingly soft, sweet fruit and accompanied by the marvellous, thick, perfectly vanilla-infused yellow custard. Dad went for the poached pear, chocolate sauce and ice cream (£4.95), the resulting, delectable combo of impeccably soft, poached fruit, rich chocolate sauce and first-class ice cream rendering him silent for a good five minutes as he indulged in his idyllic pudding heaven.
Combining the perfect mix of style and atmosphere, and with an impressive selection of drinks and Michelin star style food, Tony and Ola have certainly set the standard by which all other Bristol pubs should be judged. Laid back, welcoming and refreshingly idiosyncratic, they deserve to do well whetting the whistles and satiating the appetites of the city's pub-going punters.
5/5
Reviewed by Jamie Caddick for 365Bristol - The website where local information matters
Article by:
Born and raised in the suburbs of Swansea, Jimmy moved to Bristol back in 2004 to attend university. Passionate about live music, sport, science and nature, he can usually be found walking his cocker spaniel Baxter at any number of green spots around the city. Call James on 078 9999 3534 or email Editor@365Bristol.com.
