Reviews

The Old Fish Market in Bristol food review

Posted on: 2015-03-27

Head chef, Chloe Lally, might only have recently finished catering school but this is one chef who knows her food, how to prepare, cook and present it, and is without doubt a rising star in the gastronomic future of the city.

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The Old Fish Market on Baldwin Street in Bristol has always been one of my favourite pubs. Many a post-work Friday evening has been spent with workmates settling myself into its cosy, snug environment and quaffing a few fine ales to warmly usher in the weekend. It's that rare, perfectly balanced combination of old fashioned and traditional mixed with a lively contemporary vibe. Smart and inviting without being overtly pretentious, yet reassuring as an old and fluffy pair of slippers.

The venue underwent refurbishment last year which saw the installation of a new kitchen and the original wooden floors uncovered, in addition to a few barely noticeable changes with the lighting (mini lampshades, exposed filament bulbs). Best of all however, some of the walls have been adorned with old posters from the Hippodrome, Prince's Theatre and Old Vic, featuring stars such as Michael Redgrave and Cary Grant, and a few from past Christmas pantomimes (oh yes there are).

Owned by London-based Fuller's it has more than maintained its own when it comes to standing up to some of the potential competition in the area, particularly with the likes of The Beer Emporium, Royal Naval Volunteer and Brewdog, attracting fresh-faced young ale drinkers just as much as the trendy new additions. ESB, London Pride, Black Cab Stout and Seafarers are the Fuller's-brewed beers on offer, but they also have a good range of spirits, ciders and wines.

The menu used to focus of Thai food, but since that team moved across the road to open Sticks and Broth, the new menus have shifted heartily back to more traditional, proper English pub food. So now we've got a main menu that includes rump steak, beer battered cod, pork chops and burgers, and there is also a selection of bar bites and stone baked pizzas. 

We visited on a Sunday with the unwavering intention of sampling their Sunday roast, which is whipping up enthusiastic word of mouth and something of a reputation. It's easy to see why. My garlic and thyme roasted chicken breast and my partner's slow roasted pork belly with crackling and homemade apple sauce (both £11.95) were irrefutably dishes to savour. Served with roasted vegetables, roast potatoes, sauteed cabbage, cauliflower cheese and a Yorkshire pudding so large it should have been illegal, it was the epitome of Sunday lunch perfection. 

My chicken was exquisitely infused with the garlic and thyme and was tender and succulent, while my partner's roasted pork was equally faultless and the crackling just transported you to another heavenly, crunchy, mouthgasmically gastronomic plain. The vegetables were impeccably soft but not overcooked, the cauliflower cheese slightly al dente and oozing rich, bubbling, melted cheese from every floret, the roast potatoes caramalised and crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and the elephantine Yorkshire pudding - once you'd managed to tackle the batter-based behemoth - was light, airy, tasty and textbook.

For dessert I headed straight for the sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel ice cream (£4.95), my partner the white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake (£4.95). My sticky toffee pudding was just the fusion of sweetness and richness you'd expect and was counterbalanced by the dreamy salted caramel ice cream, while the cheesecake was light and not too overpowering, resting on a mouthwateringy buttery biscuit base. 

So, the Old Fish Market was a firm favourite of my past and will unquestionably continue to be a resolutely firm favourite in the future. On the Sunday afternoon we visited the place was packed with throngs of ale-quaffers and food fans supping their fine beverages and enjoying their excellent food. 

Manager Richard Bower is steering the pub in the right direction and has found the perfect balance between the inviting, convivial old boozer atmosphere with first-class, British grub that is sure to make waves and get mouth chattering (and chomping) over the coming months.  Head chef, Chloe Lally, might only have recently finished catering school but this is one chef who knows her food, how to prepare, cook and present it, and is without doubt a rising star in the gastronomic future of the city. 

Washed down with a pint of tip-top condition London Pride, the Old Fish Market remains the wise and noble grandfather in a burgeoning group of up-and-coming whippersnappers, and one of the best food and drink establishments in Bristol.

5/5

Food: 5, Service: 5, Value: 5

Reviewed by Jamie Caddick for 365Bristol - the leading events and entertainment website for Bristol

The Old Fish Market is located at 59-63 Baldwin St, Bristol, BS1 1QZ. For more information call 0117 9211515 or visit www.oldfishmarket.co.uk.

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